WOMEN’S SHOW SPRING - SUMMER 2025

The Spring/Summer 2025 Moschino collection by Adrian Appiolaza explores communities of dress – cultures and subcultures, where dressing alike is a mark of kindred spirits. Divided into distinct groups, echoing and reflecting each other, fashion here has a group mentality. Strength in numbers. Throughout, styles shift, individuality celebrated even as part of a gang.

The everyday is sublimated, the ordinary made extraordinary, our perspective altered. Household items and everyday dress become subjects of obsession – tailoring is rescaled and deconstructed, classic black ‘Tubino’ dresses fuse with printed silk housecoats, upholstery becomes luxurious outerwear, shoelaces amass into a parka.

A sequence of outfits, draped from sheets, become literal blank canvasses for creation, decorated with biro drawings. The freedom of youth finds expression through chalk drawings, originally created by Franco Moschino as a child, reproduced as ‘graffito’ on black cotton tailoring. The act of creation becomes a form of decoration, drawing implements dangle as earrings, embroidery swatches and passementerie unspool from shirts.

There is a mood of play – playing with clothes, but also playing with words, with ideas and perception. The British art director and editor Terry Jones, founder of i-D – a magazine born in 1980, collaborates to create a series of graphics rooted in the ironic wordplay, wit and visual games that always inspired Franco Moschino:

THINK TWICE, WEAR AND CARE, WHAT’S UP!

Guest appearances are made by iconic archival pieces by the designer and artist Judy Blame, whose “objets trouvés” approach and club culture background connect inherently to the collection’s ideology, and whose creative freedom matches Franco’s.

Original one-off items are showcased, while Moschino collaborates with Trust Judy Blame in an homage, reissuing archival items remixed in the Moschino attitude, and by reproducing the unique pieces as trademark Moschino trompe l’oeil prints. Milan meets London, a spirit shared.

Moschino iconographies are simultaneously championed and subverted. The Smiley face, the logo belt, Popeye and Olive Oyl. Franco’s obsession with pearls appears as punk harnesses, while polka-dots escape dresses to decorate bodies.